Sunday, 19 February 2012

LFW - Bora Aksu AW12 Collection

Bora Aksu AW12 at LFW

Bora Aksu always sends something striking onto the catwalk and one thing the designer does well is winter pastels. Soft pinks teamed with black have been seen in previous winter collections and again this season the Bora Aksu collection featured this colour combination. There were some other surprising twists though with dip-dyed orange, tomato red and hot pink adding a stunning vibrancy to the garments. Powdery grey tailoring in the form of pencil skirts, jackets and capes, added a grown-up edge to the more playful pieces.

The inspiration behind the collection mixed both the childish and matriarchal personas of a woman and I think you can see those sides within the designs. There was a little less of the 3D embellishment and adornment we've seen from Bora Aksu in previous seasons, but in its place was the designer's first foray into print, with the same motif running through the collection. The print again had influences of both the grown-up and the childish with the design being inspired by '50s wallpaper but the repetition of it inspired by potato printing. The texturewas still there but came as part of the make-up of the garment instead of an addition later on.

Bora Aksu AW12 at LFW

I also loved the clutch bags which are a collaboration with Bracher Emden, a luxury accessories brand who have also worked with Bryce Aime, Swarovski and Jean Pierre Braganza. As for the hats, they reminded me of traditional Hungarian folk dress, and the reason I know about those is because when I was younger I was made a costume to wear for a special 'Europe' day at school and I had this cute little hat which we researched through books from the library.

Something that so many people seem to be doing this season is chiffon overlays. Sheer fabrics have been big news for the past few seasons, but Corrie Nielsen layered them over tartan, Bora Aksu over printed fabrics. I love this look as a way to add softness to winter clothing. There have also been a lot of high collars or wide collared, necklines, Bora's printed high collars were really cute and are a trend-contender for the slightly overdone Peter Pan collar - I especially wanted the black sparkly one!

Bora Aksu AW12 at LFW

What Bora Aksu does so well is marrying contrasting ideas into something fresh and exciting. Before it has been alien-like details with folk-like design and this time the naive and mature were combined. There's a great interview on Amelia's Magazine where Bora Aksu talks about boot sales, taking garments apart and following his dream, which goes some way to explaining how these ideas come together.

Watch the show highlights below...









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