LFW - Joanne Hynes & Helen Steele

This was probably my biggest (pleasant) surprise of fashion week. I went in not sure what to expect, but came out impressed with the collection especially its craftsmanship and bejewelled detailing. This season saw a collaboration between Joanne Hynes and artist Helen Steele.

The collection featured strong references to nature with twigs and branches in the model's hair and natural fabrics like recycled wool, jute and tweed. The overall effect was far from sombre though with almost psychedelic prints and patterns coming through - there was also a touch of pure luxe with jewels, heavy red fabrics and metallics like my personal favourite, the gold leather skirt. Plus, check out those killer platforms!

Definitely worth keeping an eye on, view some of my pics below...

LFW - Fashion Week highlight, Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab, not a designer that I'd had a huge amount of exposure to before, but after this season's catwalk show I'll certainly be paying plenty of attention in future. I was so glad I made the show and also glad they changed the location from quite a cramped space to the BFC show tent. I plonked myself right on the end of the aisle to get a good view at next season's styles and I loved almost everything I saw.

Like House of Holland, pearls were a feature and they nestled within the seams and lines of the garments. The pearl becomes an 'integral part of the silhouette rather than a status accessory'. But set that against a striking colour palette including red, teal and mustard, alongside black and there is nothing twee or too prim about the overall look. The collection featured vibrant contrasts; pearls with black leather and straps, wool and buckles, shift dresses and chiffon with padded and quilted jackets. Without seeing it the description might put someone off, but the whole concept came off really well.

Schwab's calls his trademark piece a 'seductive little dress' and there were plenty to choose from in this collection. I can't wait till it's available, although I fear my bank balance won't allow for a Schwab shopping spree. Not this year at least. Look out for a new Marios Schwab website coming soon.

LFW - What a Location for a Fashion Show...

What a stunning location for a fashion show! The Royal Courts of Justice might not have been the most obvious option, and we all had to go through airport style security to get in, but the overall effect was amazing. I saw the Giles show there, but Vivienne Westwood also staged her catwalk collection in the same striking space. 

Which building do you think would make an amazing venue for a fashion show? 

LFW - Ann-Sofie Back AW11

Clean, modern and featuring delicate gold hardwear sitting away from the body. This collection was quite different to others I'd seen at Fashion Week. The fabrics seemed almost filled with air, quite starched. There's something very precise and immaculate about the garments which seem all about clean lines and simple shapes. I wasn't blown away, but loved the gold detailing, especially on the collar of the crisp white shirt shown below.

 Glacéau vitaminwater is the official soft drink supplier to London Fashion Week keeping fashionistas hydrated all week long. Visit their Facebook page for some special Fashion Week giveaways. Thanks to vitaminwater for the ticket to the presentation.  

GIFT - A Little Thank You to Isabella Oliver

Here's a quick break from AW11 collection write-ups to say thank-you for a little gift I received from Isabella Oliver last week. How cute is this notebook! And it arrived, well-timed, just before London Fashion Week kicked off. It's just so nice I haven't decided what to use it for yet, any ideas?

I also have to say thanks for the knitted poncho they sent over. They must have remembered me complaining about how cold I was when I was last in their studio. I now call this my 'blogging blanket' Whenever I'm at my PC and getting a bit chilly, I throw this bad boy on and I'm toasty warm. Just the thing when the temperature drops unexpectedly like it seems to have done this week. Plus, I've been spending a lot of time at this desk - I've re-re-rediscovered my passion for blogging as I do every Fashion Week. Lovely people, lovely clothes, lovely locations... I just love it all. 

Before Christmas I went to the press event for the SS11 Isabella Oliver 365 range. Nothing beats it for classic and timeless pieces that will last you the season. Everything mixes and matches nicely for the perfect weekend wardrobe. Keep an eye out for the sequinned jackets and lace dresses - beautiful. Shop the Isabella Oliver 365 collection.

LFW - Ashish Interview and AW11 Show Highlights

Those lovely folk over at vitaminwater sorted me out with a front row seat and quick interview with Ashish this evening. It was a fabulous way to end Fashion Week, especially as the Ashish collection has always been a highlight for me. Colour, sparkle and a press release that reads like an entertaining short story - what's not to love! 

The backstage area after a show is manic to say the least. There's a rabble of journalists waiting for interviews, celebrities and friends popping back to congratulate the designer or just say 'Hi' and, all the while, teams are desperately trying to clear up before security kick them out. How everything gets back to where it's meant to be I'll never know, it's a feat of organisational wizardry. As I wait for my slot, Paloma Faith (wearing Ashish) excitedly shows the designer a book she's currently reading on The Sex Pistols. With the London Punk scene an influence for this collection, it seems the pair are very much on the same wavelength. Amber Rose pops back to be introduced wearing a jaw-dropping, figure-hugging dress and super high wedges, and Marina Lambrini (and the Diamonds) pokes her head in too before rushing off.

I had a couple of minutes to chat to the designer before the lights went out and we were all escorted from the BFC tent...

The Style PA: Another great collection, does it take a big team to get everything ready for fashion week, do you find it stressful?
Ashish: No I have a really small little team. I just hole myself up in my little flat and work away.

You've said that this season London is a big influence for the collection. What is it about London that makes it a stylish and fashionable place?
I think it's the diversity, that people just do whatever they want. It's youth culture too; this is where youth culture comes from. I think the nice thing with London fashion is that it's very young, it's new and young all the time. I think that's really exciting. Young people in london are just fantastic, the way they dress, they're so brave.

I also have a men's blog so was interested to see men on the catwalk today. How would you convince a man who's never worn sequins to give it a go?
That's what's really interesting, it had a kind of glam-rock feeling to it. I originally didn't design the pieces for men, I designed them for girls who were wearing their boyfriend's clothes', that was the inspiration. Then when we were actually putting the show together I started thinking wouldn't it be cool to just mix it in, and I think it looked great. It all depends on the context you put it in but I really liked it.  

There always seems to be an element of contrast to your collections for example teaming the knitwear with sequins...
When I started using sequins about 10 years ago most people were horrified because sequins equalled 'a slightly naff cocktail dress', now suddenly sequins are being done in daywear and have become quite mainstream. I think it's good to push those boundaries a little bit and it's just a wonderful medium to work with.

Sequins are definitely part of your signature style; we won't see you moving away from that in future? In 25 years time Ashish will be...
Oh my god, I'll probably be retired by then. You don't want me hanging around for 25 years, you'll all be so bored of it. I'll probably give up fashion when I give up sequins.

And growing up, did you always want to be in fashion?
Yeah, definitely. I used to rip out pages from my mum's Vogue magazines and stick them on my bedroom walls. Slightly disturbing as that may be.

Did you ever experiment with clothes yourself? Has it ever been about wearing the looks or more about dressing other people?
No, I don't wear it myself, I just love to dress the models.

So back to the collection... snippits from the press release refer to this season's muse as 'a punk with a lower case 'p', a 'layabout laird' and a 'poor little rich girl'. The plaid says Scotland, but the punky details are all about London and Ashish takes shabby chic to a new level with rips, safety pins, jumpers with holes in and frayed edges. If you ask me, the collection couldn't be further from that tacky cocktail dress he mentions above, it's well-themed, striking and definitely makes a statement. It's everything we love about Ashish, with a brand new story to get lost in, and this time it's British-inspired rather than American. Top marks for the best press release of the season too!

Watch the highlights from the show below...

Glacéau vitaminwater is the official soft drink supplier to London Fashion Week keeping fashionistas hydrated all week long. Visit theirFacebook page for some special Fashion Week giveaways.  

LFW - Backstage at Jasper Conran for AW11

Thanks to vitaminwater I was given the opportunity to go backstage before Jasper Conran showed his Autumn/Winter collection on the catwalk on Sunday. When I arrived teams were finishing up with hair and make-up and the call for models to be ready in 10 minutes rang through the area. I did a quick sweep of the room, scanning garments as I went and trying desperately not to get in anyone's way.

The invitation showed a close-up of sequins so I had an idea that they might feature in the collection and the first thing I spotted was a heavily sequinned dress. Following that my eye was drawn to a rail of sheer panelled dresess; it's been surprising how many designers have featured sheer designs in their shows for A/W. Comfort-lovers are going to have to learn the art of layering if they are to work the trend once the temperature drops. The beautiful models had gently waved hair, cat-in-the-hat shaped headwear and a natural beauty look with coral lips. 4 hair stylists per model ensured the show started pretty much when it should have.

In the run up to London Fashion Week, Jasper Conran's team have been providing an insight into the preparation that goes into getting ready for a show. Via Twitter, Facebook and a new Tumblr blog, the team have been posting photos and letting us all know the work that goes into putting on such a big event. I love to see designers investing time in social media, it's such an instant way to access an engaged audience and gain instant feedback from them too. What's more, it fuels a passion in those who want to be part of the industry and creates excitement around London Fashion Week too.

Back in the BFC show space, it was time to see the collection as it was intended. The collection was a big contrast to spring/summer in terms of palette and the decade of influence. I loved the beach inspired collection for spring/summer worn with white pumps instead of the catwalk's trademark high heels. But from fifties style summer dresses shown back in September, this was very much an full-on winter collection featuring fur, sparkle and striking '60s shapes - all with the clean lines and signature minimalism that Conran is known for. Panelled monochrome dresses were a hit with tweeters with Hilary Alexander referring to the look as 'crazy paving' (I didn't see a press release so I'm not sure if that was a phrase coined by Hilary or Jasper) For me, the stiffened fabrics in white were almost like a paper armour - staunch but delicate all at the same time. 

The Avengers style jumpsuits and low slung belts were a surprise and heads were definitely turned when one of the hero pieces from the collection hit the runway; a Toscana sheepskin coat. The palette of grey, black and white was given extra warmth with rich browns and coppers. All in all, a highly commercial collection with one-or-two surprises that made it both charming and memorable once again.

Watch the Jasper Conran show highlights below...

Glacéau vitaminwater is the official soft drink supplier to London Fashion Week keeping fashionistas hydrated all week long. Visit theirFacebook page for some special Fashion Week giveaways.  

LFW - Backstage at John Rocha for AW11

I had a ticket to watch the John Rocha show through work, but Glacéau vitaminwater (who are the official soft drink supplier to London Fashion Week) secured me a few minutes to dash backstage before the show for a sneak peek. Funnily enough, as I stepped inside, past the vitaminwater fridge, John Rocha reached in and grabbed himself a bottle - although I wasn't quick enough with my camera on that one.

Taking a quick look through the rails of clothing I spotted the usual textures in a black and neutral colour palette, however a bright red accent also stood out too. Set against brown fur it was a stunning combination and I was also glad to see warmer butterscotch nudes instead of starker white. Garments contained a mixture of different fabrics such as pressed wool, appliquéd lace, alpaca, ponyskin, shearling and sheer silks. The edges, as we've come to expect from John's designs, were raw, tufted or looped to create exaggerated texture, easily noticeable from a distance and it was this that created the drama in the collection. 

When the designs hit the runway there was another aspect that became clear. Rocha seemed to have played with tailoring shapes and while the men's tailored silhouette was conventional, the women's coats had unusual dropped shoulders. It's amazing how a seemingly minor change can have such a dramatic effect. Women's coats and dresses also had prom style skirts creating a strong feminine shape. Influences for the collection included the art of Pierre Soulages - I went to an exhibition of his works in Paris last year. It's all very black but features a lot of (you guessed it) texture. Neil Young's Harvest Moon also informed the direction of the season's work.

Much of the buzz on Twitter before the show was surrounding Abbey Lee Kershaw who was walking for the designer. I gotta admit, the girl is fierce! Take a look at a few of my pics below, or view the whole collection at the London Fashion Week website.

Glacéau vitaminwater is the official soft drink supplier to London Fashion Week keeping fashionistas hydrated all week long. Visit their Facebook page for some special Fashion Week giveaways.  

LFW - House of Holland Hawt Couture

House of Holland is a highlight of Fashion Week for me and that's because it's reminds us all that fashion can be (and should be) fun. Henry is a different kind of designer, I love the way he comes up with a, sometimes unlikely, fashion theme that he translates into something new and totally desirable.

His collection for AW11 is no different. Everyone seems to be saying 'granny chic' but for me it's a bit more retro than just that. The whole show reminded me of a sort of middle-aged garden party in the seventies, but in a good way of course. Henry has taken those seemingly cheesy icons like bingo and crochet and given them an update - and seeing as bingo is enjoying a bit of a revival with the younger generations anyway it could be well timed. The other key reference was 'stable chic', elbow patches on Harris Tweed skirt suits added a touch of country to the city boy's collection.

My favourite piece without doubt was the pink tweed dress with draped chiffon back. Bloomin gorgeous! Overall the response has been great with Vogue giving the collection a glowing write-up. You can view all the looks over at the London Fashion Week website.

As great as it was seeing the collection, I'm even more impressed by the infomercial style mini-film they've put together though. The video below showcases some of the new product and features Henry, Pixie Geldof and model Dree Hemingway. Take a look, it shows off the product far better than my photos do. 

Find out more about Henry in my interview with him from last year. If you love Henry but can't quite afford his House of Holland catwalk collection you could always give his diffusion line with Debenhams a go. Shop H! by Henry Holland.

LFW - More From Day 2 at London Fashion Week

The longest, wettest queue of the day award goes to Bernard Chandran. Luckily I stumbled upon Tor from Fab Frocks en route so I had someone to chat to while we waited. The venue was one I hadn't been to before, 8 Northumberland Avenue's cavernous Victorian ballroom and unfortunately I couldn't get many pics but Carina 100 has posted a few more and I love Alize Morand's shot on her blog too.

The red lace was gorgeous and most of the models wore some kind of belt with peplum style attachments which reminded me of petals or insect wings. There was the odd silky cape thrown in too... so summing up the collection was like a glamorous, colourful superhero/insect. Interesting as always and using a bold colour palette although not so much of the intricate beading and embellishment that I usually love from Chandran. Note the shoes: have you ever seen such a teetering heel?

The late-running of this show meant a mad dash was required to get up to the venue for Belle Sauvage's show but we made it and secured a spot near the photographer's pit. I loved the thumping bass of the soundtrack to this catwalk show and the first look that came out included an absolutely huge hat. That made the crowds take notice! The garments featured digital prints, figure-hugging dresses and the most amazing statement shoes...

Katy Perry has been spotted wearing a Belle Sauvage dress recently and Fergie performed at the American Music Awards in a Belle Sauvage dress too. They've clearly won over the US pop crowd. If you're a fan you can shop current season Belle Sauvage online.