Saturday, 18 September 2010

LFW - Jacob Kimmie Presentation 'Eternal Delight'

Jacob Kimmie, Eternal Delight

What I really like about Jacob Kimmie is the presence he has at his own shows or presentations. I remember last season he stood at the door as people made their way out so people had the opportunity to chat informally to him about the collection. This time it was no different. Jacob was there watching as everyone entered the exhibition space, and he then came through to mingle afterwards. It's refreshing for a designer to be part of the show like that.

So, more about the actual designs. Once again cutwork was a strong and striking statement running through the collection, and Kimmie works with Fiona Ross and Alice Welsh on these pieces. The over-sized bangle cuffs and arm sleeve concept piece worn by the one-arm male model were particularly well done. I thought the garments were much more wearable than last season with a couple of beautiful floral prints being favourites of mine. In the past it's been a bit too much of a dark carnival for me, but this time round the designs are far more modern.

Jacob Kimmie, Eternal Delight

The silk trapeze style dresses which Kimmie sites as key to the collection, although not hugely flattering on every figure, looked elegant and graceful on the models. Menswear was also introduced this year with tailored pieces in wool crepe.

Jacob says: I am fed-up with horrible thick satins, gaudy zibeline and stiff taffetas tucked, taped and draped to boned foundation garments. We're not living in the 40's and 50's. This collection is the antidote to the caricaturised view of women. I wanted fabrics that feel light, that breathe and move; that are dynamic and energetic".

Jacob Kimmie, Eternal Delight

The dynamic angle that Jacob talks about was realised in the presentation by the use of fans to show manipulate movement in the garments. As the models were posing static, you don't get the same motion in the fabric that you'd get if they were walking a runway, so this I think was an important touch in bringing the collection to life.

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Jacob Kimmie, Eternal Delight
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